A recent exhibition at the British Museum showcases the rich cultures along ancient trade routes, but a journey to Central Asia reveals even more—breathtaking architecture, tempting cuisine, and exhilarating trekking opportunities.
Caroline Eden, an intrepid traveler, first visited Tajikistan in 2009 as a backpacker. When she arrived at the small capital city of Dushanbe at 3 AM, with a trekking permit and a letter of invitation, the airport was nearly deserted, and the city was dimly lit. Fast forward to today, and you’ll find that obtaining a visa upon arrival has streamlined access, and Dushanbe has transformed into a vibrant, bustling metropolis.
The capital is now dotted with construction sites, and though some old Soviet-era theaters, teahouses, and cinemas have faced unfortunate demolition, the main thoroughfare, Rudaki Avenue, remains a stunning central artery. Lined with mature trees, fountains, and parks, it’s a picturesque locale where couples stroll hand in hand. This charming street also reflects the country’s cultural identity.
Dushanbe’s main road is named after Rudaki, a 10th-century master of Persian literature who was born within modern-day Tajikistan. As Caroline’s friend, Mirzoshah Akobirov, once pointed out, “For hundreds of years our culture has had links to Persia, Afghanistan, and Uzbekistan. Our culture is not, and has never been, Russian.”
Attending the British Museum’s upcoming Silk Roads exhibition, running until February 23, 2025, Caroline considered how the term “Silk Road” is a simplified label for vast territories and a timeline spanning from about 200 BC to AD 1400. Moreover, Tajikistan’s significance in this historic narrative cannot be overstated. The ancestors of modern Tajiks, the Sogdians, were key players in east-west commerce, their influence peaking around AD 500 at their capital, Maracanda, known today as Samarkand.
Not only silk but a wealth of trade items—garnets, glass, ideas, and religions—traveled along these ancient networks, inspiring a continuous flow of travelers to the Silk Roads, from the Caucasus to Turkey and the museums of China.
In Central Asia, you can still shop in covered markets reminiscent of those where ancient merchants once traded, and rest in converted caravanserais. With a morning cup of tea infused with Silk Road spices like cardamom and saffron at local chaikhanas, you can almost feel the echoes of the past.
Caroline recalls her visits to the National Museum of Tajikistan, where ancient treasures like a tiny gold sphinx earring and fragments of Buddhas tell of the region’s historical depth. She was particularly drawn to murals from Penjikent, a welcoming city that once sat at the heart of ancient Sogdiana.
Traveling northwest to Penjikent, she was greeted by scenic mountain formations and local vendors selling traditional snacks. While Penjikent’s museum offers a glimpse into Rudaki’s life, the main attraction is the archaeological site of ancient Penjikent, often referred to as the “Pompeii of Central Asia.” These ruins, situated on a sun-kissed terrace, reveal a once-thriving Sogdian town.
Rich in history, Penjikent once flourished due to its trade routes and fertile lands by the Zarafshan River. Here, visitors are treated to bustling bazaars where you can find homemade cherry jam, fresh tandoor bread, and rich chaka yogurt. For fruit lovers, the unique Tajik lemons, reminiscent of plums, are a must-try.
For those seeking adventure, the nearby Seven Lakes, a series of stunning turquoise pools in the Fann mountains, provide exceptional trekking opportunities. Caroline fondly recalls a hike during which she witnessed a dramatic encounter between an eagle and a young kitten—a wild reminder of nature’s unpredictability.
The High Pamirs, known as the Roof of the World, offer even more rugged trekking experiences. While less accessible, they remain a paradise for the adventurous at heart.
Samarkand, a city steeped in Silk Road history, exhilarates with sights like the Shah-i-Zinda, an avenue of mausoleums adorned with exquisite blue tile work from the 14th and 15th centuries. Nearby, the Gur-e-Amir, Tamerlane’s mausoleum, impressively showcases one of the largest jade tombstones in existence.
Tourism in Tajikistan is still burgeoning, offering unique opportunities to engage with local tour operators. Caroline advocates for supporting these businesses to promote sustainable tourism in the region.
With an eye for culture and a passion for exploration, Caroline Eden invites readers to discover the enchanting allure of Central Asia, where past and present intertwine along the storied Silk Roads.