What do you do if you can’t find papaya or kohlrabi? Chef Ravinder Bhogal offers a clever solution: use Granny Smith apples for a crunchy twist on a Thai som tam salad. She also recommends pairing it with a Bengali-style sweet-sour dal and a classic, irresistible apple and blackberry pudding.
Reflecting on her love for apples, Bhogal shares, “Last autumn, I went apple picking and came home with bags filled with different apple varieties, each one unique in flavor and story. I made large batches of apple compote to enjoy throughout the year. Freshly sliced apples in a salad are one of my favorites, especially when paired with something earthy like kohlrabi. I’ve found that tart varieties, like Bramley apples, work beautifully with a spicy dal. And let’s be honest, I’m a huge fan of desserts featuring apples—the combination of cooked apples, sponge, and custard is simply unbeatable!”
**Granny Smith and Kohlrabi Som Tam with Peanuts**
Chef Bhogal’s take on classic Thai papaya salad uses kohlrabi for its texture and Granny Smith apples for a sharp, tangy flavor. “Both ingredients are budget-friendly and easier to find,” she adds.
**Prep Time:** 40 minutes
**Serves:** 4
**Ingredients:**
– 50g green beans, topped and cut into thirds
– 2 fat garlic cloves, peeled
– 2-4 red bird’s eye chilies (adjust to your spice level)
– 12 cherry tomatoes, halved
– 3 tbsp salted peanuts, roughly chopped, plus 1 tbsp extra for garnish
– 250g kohlrabi (about 2 bulbs)
– 2 Granny Smith apples
– Juice of 1 lime
– 2 tbsp fish sauce
– 3 tbsp palm sugar or soft brown sugar
**Instructions:**
1. Boil salted water in a pot and blanch the green beans for two minutes, then refresh in ice-cold water before draining.
2. In a large mortar, blend the garlic with a pinch of salt, then add the chilies and gently bruise them. The longer you pound, the spicier it gets! Add the tomatoes, blanched beans, and peanuts, and roughly crush these ingredients together.
3. Peel the kohlrabi and apples, then julienne them into fine matchsticks.
4. If necessary, work in batches to lightly bruise the kohlrabi in the mortar before transferring everything to a large bowl.
5. Mix the lime juice, fish sauce, and sugar in the mortar until the sugar dissolves, adjusting to achieve a balanced flavor of sour, salty, and sweet.
6. Combine the dressing with the apples and all remaining salad ingredients in the bowl. Toss well and sprinkle with the remaining peanuts before serving.
**Sweet-and-Sour Apple Dal**
Inspired by a Bengali cook’s raw mango dal, Chef Bhogal has swapped out mango for tart Bramley apples, creating a unique flavor profile.
**Prep Time:** 10 minutes
**Cook Time:** 45 minutes
**Serves:** 4
**Ingredients:**
– 250g red lentils, thoroughly washed
– **For the Tempering:**
– 1 tbsp ghee or coconut oil
– 1 heaped tsp brown mustard seeds
– ½ tsp cumin seeds
– 1 dried red chili
– 1-2 green bird’s eye chilies, finely chopped (seeds left in for extra heat)
– 1 thumb-sized piece of ginger, peeled and finely grated
– 1 Bramley apple, peeled, cored, and cut into 1cm cubes
– ½ tsp turmeric
– 1 tsp caster sugar
– Sea salt, to taste
– Basmati rice, for serving
**Instructions:**
1. In a saucepan, combine the washed lentils with 1.2 liters of cold water. Bring to a boil, partially cover, and let simmer for 30-40 minutes until very soft, whisking to break them up.
2. Meanwhile, prepare the tempering in a small frying pan over medium-high heat with the ghee, mustard seeds, and cumin. Once they start to pop, add the dried and fresh chilies along with the ginger. Cook briefly.
3. Stir in the apple, followed by the turmeric and sugar, and cook on low heat for about five minutes.
4. Mix the tempered spiced apple mixture with the cooked lentils, season to taste, and let cook for an additional five minutes. Serve hot with freshly cooked basmati rice.
**Apple and Blackberry Pudding**
This classic dessert is a crowd-pleaser for a good reason!
**Prep Time:** 10 minutes
**Cook Time:** 1 hour 20 minutes
**Serves:** 6
**Ingredients:**
– 4 sharp apples (like Granny Smith), peeled, cored, and cut into eighths
– 100g caster sugar
– Zest of 1 lemon
– 500g good-quality vanilla custard
– 100g blackberries
**For the Sponge:**
– 225g butter, plus extra for greasing
– 225g caster sugar
– 4 eggs
– 225g self-raising flour
– Salt
– 125ml milk
– 50g demerara sugar
**Instructions:**
1. In a medium saucepan, combine apples with sugar, lemon zest, and a tablespoon of cold water. Cover and cook over medium-high heat for five minutes until just tender.
2. Preheat the oven to 180C (160C fan) / 350F / gas 4. Grease a 1.8-liter ceramic baking dish with butter.
3. In a stand mixer, cream the butter and caster sugar until light and fluffy. Add the eggs one at a time, mixing well to prevent curdling. Sift in the remaining flour with a pinch of salt and fold in gently before adding the milk.
4. Pour half the batter into the prepared dish, creating a shallow well in the center. Pour the custard into this well, then layer with apples and blackberries. Cover with the remaining batter and sprinkle with demerara sugar.
5. Bake for an hour until golden but still slightly wobbly in the center. Serve warm or, for a cake-like texture, chill overnight and cut into squares.
Through these delightful recipes, Bhogal invites everyone to embrace the joy of cooking with local seasonal produce.